This week, we head to the west coast of Scotland to explore one of the more unique properties under the care of the National Trust for Scotland (NTS)- the Hill House. Built over a century ago, it is considered the ultimate work of art by Charles Rennie Mackintosh within the domestic realm.
The Birth of The Hill House
In 1902, Walter Blackie and his wife, Anna, decided that they wanted to move from Dunblane to Helensburgh and build a house there. Blackie was from a wealthy Glaswegian business family and was a book publisher (with the family business- Blackie & Son). In fact, Blackie was introduced to Charles Rennie Mackintosh by the Blackie & Son art director, Talwin Morris. And so began a wonderful collaboration that eventually resulted in the Hill House.
I have a particular appreciation of the Art Nouveau movement, and we have been fortunate to see lovely examples of it around Europe- most notably in Paris. Some of my favourite examples are the Paris Métropolitain (aka Métro) entrances designed by Hector Guimard between 1900-1913.
While their work was closely related to Art Nouveau, Mackintosh and his wife, Margaret Macdonald Mackintosh, (along with other contemporaries) created their own local, special version of it, dubbed the ‘Glasgow Style’. The result is a magnificent style that is simple yet exquisite at the same time.
Now, we’re not art historians, but we certainly appreciate art history. However, there have been books written about Mackintosh and the Glasgow Style and delving into the specifics of this movement is beyond the scope of this article. Instead, we will let the art and architecture speak for itself with pictures and video from our visit. We’ll take a tour of the interior and exterior of the Hill House in just a minute, but we need to provide just a wee bit of historical background that helps provide context for the house’s condition today.
While there is no doubt that Mackintosh and Macdonald created a masterpiece, there is one serious flaw with the house’s design. To save money, Mackintosh used what, at the time, was a new and cost-effective harling for the exterior of the House- Portland cement. Unfortunately, this material does not hold up against the wet, Scottish west coast weather, and it is “dissolving like an aspirin in a glass of water”. As a result, the NTS needed to come up with an idea to try to preserve this iconic Mackintosh structure.
The first thing that the NTS needed to do was to start to dry the structure. Fortunately, they created something that would prevent the wind and rain from getting to the Hill House but would allow visitors to still have access to it- and in quite a unique way. They came up with a “Box”- a protective steel mesh structure that completely surrounds the House. Sit tight because we’ll come back to a tour of this in just a bit.
The Hill House Today
The NTS sums it up well when they state that The Hill House “represents a union of two architectural opposites: traditional Scottish values and modern international aspirations”. They go on to say that it is a “testament to Charles’ and Margaret’s unique artistry”. We wholeheartedly agree with the phrase, “unique artistry”. Let me just say that there is no way that our photos and videos can do justice to this incredible house, but we will do our best to provide a bit of a virtual tour. However, if you are in the Helensburgh area, we highly recommend that you visit the Hill House so you can further explore its beauty in person. Until then, enjoy this wee tour. Let’s begin inside the Hill House and then work our way out.
I can’t imagine what a pleasure it must have been to be able to live in such an exquisitely designed house. For me, Charles’ and Margaret’s designs create a real sense of peace and relaxation. Therefore, the Hill House feels more like a refuge and sanctuary rather than just a ‘house’. In fact, there are fairytale references throughout the house in the designs done by Margaret, and I think that adds to its magical quality.
Let's begin in the hall.
The dining room is dominated with paintings of Walter and Anna Blackie that were done by Hilary Strain in the 1920s.
One of my favourite rooms is the drawing room.
A highlight of this room is the fireplace. Specifically, take the time to admire Margaret Macdonald Mackintosh’ gesso panel, ‘The Sleeping Princess’, “which depicts a sleeping princess in her protective bower of briar roses”.
It’s important to note that Margaret was an incredible artist in her own right. In fact, one of Charles’ most famous quotes is, “Margaret has genius, I only have talent”. She exhibited internationally, for example, at the famous 1900 Vienna Secession Exhibition. There, she met the artist Gustav Klimt, and it is said that Margaret’s work most likely inspired him. Many of you may know him for his painting, ‘The Kiss’.
You can appreciate more of Margaret's work throughout the House, but especially in the main bedroom. On display are copies of her silk embroidered hangings above the bed, which she made for Anna Blackie.
Please enjoy scrolling through more photos from throughout the House:
Now that we have had a chance to explore the interior, let’s head outside to what is now known as ‘The Hill House Box’. Inside the Box are extensive walkways that allow visitors to get a view of the Hill House with unique perspectives that even the Blackies or Mackintoshes were not able to achieve.
As you walk around the grounds, you can get a full appreciation of the lengths that the NTS has taken to ensure the conservation of such an important piece of Scottish history.
After thoroughly exploring the House, don’t forget to stop by the wee café. You can get a bite to eat for lunch or a wee dessert and coffee like we did.
Visiting The Hill House
As we stated above, to truly get the fullest experience that the Hill House has to offer, you need to see it in person. So, do yourselves a favour, and visit this incredible example of Mackintosh’s work. Be sure to check out the NTS website for more the most up-to-date information on how to best plan your visit. The NTS is a wonderful source of information for so many people and places connected to the past and present of Scotland. In fact, they were the main source for this article, and we thank them for that.
We share the National Trust for Scotland’s value for preserving the Hill House for future generations. That is why we are so fortunate that we have them and all the work that they have done- especially when it comes to Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s legacy. In fact, be sure to subscribe to our blog (click the button below) because we will be writing about other iconic places connected to Mackintosh in the coming months. Another great way to virtually join our travels around Scotland is to follow us on our various social media platforms- YouTube, Bluesky, Instagram, Facebook, and Threads.
Until next time- Explore & Discover!
