Storytelling is not only our trade, but something we truly appreciate here at Wee Walking Tours. That is why we love to visit museums so much- they are filled with historical artefacts just waiting to whisper their tales to visitors. Surgeons' Hall Museums are a perfect example as they offer a captivating journey through exhibitions highlighting history as well as recent technological innovations in medicine. So, join us as we venture to the Old Town and explore fascinating stories (some darker than others) from Edinburgh's medical history!
Before we begin our tour, we want to let you know that, understandably, visitors are not allowed to take photos or video (specifically due to the restrictions of not being allowed to take up close photos of human remains). Therefore, the few interior photos we have in this article were approved ones sent directly from the Museum (upon our request). Also, only assistance dogs are allowed in the Museums, but our Golden Retriever tour guide in-training, Walter, recently had fun posing around the beautiful exterior areas of the Museums. Lastly, while we have visited Surgeons’ Hall Museums on a handful of occasions and paid full admission each time, the Museum kindly compensated my ticket for my most recent visit in August. Therefore, we extend our most sincere thanks to the Surgeons’ Hall Museums.
To help situate ourselves historically, let’s establish some important dates. The Incorporation of Surgeons and Barbers was founded on 1 July 1505 and is one of the oldest medical organisations in the world. In 1567, Mary Queen of Scots granted them a Royal Charter, and the Incorporation became a Royal College in 1778. The Royal College of Surgeons of Edinburgh (RCSEd) moved to its present location in 1832.
Surgeons’ Hall Museums are owned by RCSEd and consist of The History of Surgery Museum, The Wohl Pathology Museum, The Dental Collection, and Body Voyager. According to Surgeons’ Hall Museums, “the collection contains the largest and most historic collections of surgical pathology in the world, including bone and tissue specimens, artefacts and works of art.” The Museums are not merely a collection of historical artefacts but a tribute to the evolution of surgery and medical practices over the centuries. The history is woven with tales of pioneering surgeons, significant medical advancements, and the relentless pursuit of knowledge. However, before we venture inside, let’s begin our tour outside as the architecture is magnificent and not to be missed.
The architecture of Surgeons' Hall itself is a marvel, designed by the renowned architect, William Henry Playfair (who also designed The Scottish National Gallery buildings). Completed in 1832, the building is a fine example of Greek Revival architecture, characterised by its grandeur and imposing facade. The elegant columns and intricately carved details create an aura of reverence.
This is juxtaposed with the more modern architectural elements of Surgeons’ Hall. The result is a beautiful blend of old and new that creates an inviting atmosphere and encourages visitors to explore what lies within its walls.
To satisfy our curiosity, let’s head inside and discover more of what Surgeons’ Hall Museums have to offer.
The History of Surgery Museum
We start our tour in my personal favourite, the History of Surgery Museum, whose collections are both fascinating and, at times, chilling. Among the artefacts are surgical instruments from bygone eras and detailed exhibitions that reveal a look into the human body and the complexities of surgical procedures.
One interesting feature of the Museum is the anatomy theatre demonstration. Surgeons’ Hall Museums has digitally recreated a 1702 dissection in a replica anatomy theatre in the middle of the gallery. The dissection was the first lawful one in Edinburgh (and Scotland), and was of executed criminal, David Myles. Visitors sit on one of the benches in the ‘theatre’ and watch the dissection- which is done via projections on a mannequin on an anatomy table. It is an engaging experience, and it makes you feel as if you were transported back in time, witnessing an important part of medical history in person.
One of the more macabre displays includes the infamous Burke and Hare murder case. William Burke and William Hare were notorious for committing murders in the 19th century, selling the bodies to Dr. Robert Knox for dissection. The case shook Edinburgh, and its impact can still be felt to this day. Burke and Hare have made ‘visits’ to our blog before, and you can read more about them in our post on The Anatomical Museum and a more in-depth account of their crimes in our ‘Anatomy: A Matter of Death and Life’ article.
Perhaps one of the most gruesome items on display is a pocketbook made from the skin of William Burke. It was made after his execution and public dissection by Professor Alexander Munro Tertius at the University of Edinburgh. The back of the book reads, “Executed 28 January 1829”. The disturbing artefact offers a haunting reminder of a dark chapter in Edinburgh history.
One of my favourite parts of the History of Surgery Museum discusses Sir Arthur Conan Doyle and the real Sherlock Holmes. Many people might not realise that Athur Conan Doyle wasn’t just a celebrated writer who created one of the most famous characters in history. In fact, his original training was in medicine, and he studied at the University of Edinburgh.
The exhibition outlines how Conan Doyle was inspired by a former professor- Joseph Bell- to create Sherlock Holmes. Conan Doyle met Bell (a former President of the Royal College of Surgeons of Edinburgh) in 1877 when he served as his clerk at the Royal Infirmary of Edinburgh. Conan Doyle earned his Bachelor of Medicine in 1881 and his Doctor of Medicine in 1885. Not long after, in 1887, the world was introduced to Sherlock Holmes and Dr. Watson, in Arthur Conan Doyle’s story, ‘A Study in Scarlet’.
Regarding Bell as the inspiration for Sherlock, Conan Doyle said, “I thought of my old teacher Joe Bell, of his eagle face, of his eerie trick of spotting details. If he were a detective, he would surely reduce this fascinating but unorganised business to an exact science…It is all very well to say that a man is clever, but the reader wants to see examples of it- such examples as Bell gave us every day in the wards.”
The exhibition has a variety of related artefacts on display including letters that Conan Doyle later wrote to Bell consulting with him on his Sherlock stories (Surgeons’ Hall Museums has more of their letters in their archives).
The Wohl Pathology Museum
Remember the Playfair building we saw outside? Well, we now head into that section of Surgeons’ Hall Museums to The Wohl Pathology Museum. There, the upper floor allows visitors to explore one of the largest collections of pathological anatomy in the world. Among others, there are sections on maxillofacial, vascular, and cardiothoracic surgery. The anatomical specimens give glimpses into the human body that wouldn’t normally be possible.
Downstairs, there are areas that include discussions on the way that medical museums have evolved from the ‘cabinets of curiosities’ of the late 1500s, collections from former medical professors, and exhibitions on warfare and military surgery (from Waterloo to the Second World War).
Another key section highlights an important part of Edinburgh’s medical history. In the mid-19th century, women had virtually no opportunities for medical and surgical careers. However, in 1869, medical trailblazer, Sophia Jex-Blake, led the way along with six other women- Isabel Thorne, Edith Pechey, Matilda Chaplin, Helen Evans, Mary Anderson and Emily Bovell- and enrolled at Edinburgh University. They were the first women in Britain to do so and became known as the ‘Edinburgh Seven’.
These brave women experienced horrific conditions during their time at the University. According to the University of Edinburgh, “their classes, which were taken separately, were graded differently to the men even though the lectures were identical, resulting in diminished scholarship opportunities. The everyday jealousy the male students exhibited was vile. The men made life as difficult as possible for the Edinburgh Seven, shutting doors in their faces, howling at them and behaving aggressively. Events came to a head at their anatomy exam, when several hundred male students pelted the women with mud and other objects as they arrived.” Somehow, they completed the course, but, unfortunately, the University would not allow them to graduate.
Jex-Blake and Pechey eventually obtained their MD in 1877 in Bern Switzerland. Of course, we have come a long way and women are now able to study and practice medicine at the University of Edinburgh, but we must never forget the struggles of the Edinburgh Seven.
The Dental Collection
Moving out of the Playfair building, we make our way to level 5 and start with the Dental Collection. It is an intriguing look into the history of dentistry with a range of artefacts on display from across the centuries. One of the more insightful displays shows a recreation of a dental surgery in 1880 with items typical of the period. After going through the Dental Collection, I must admit that I have a whole new appreciation for modern dentistry!
Body Voyager: The Rise of Technology in Surgery
We close our visit to Surgeons’ Hall Museums with the Body Voyager exhibition. It offers a more current (and even futuristic) look at surgery and the rise of computerised and robotic technology in medicine. The various galleries in Body Voyager provide interactive opportunities to make visitors’ experiences more immersive. Furthermore, as you walk through the galleries, you are encouraged to think about such questions as- ‘Will technology improve patient safety?’ and ‘Would you like to be operated on by a robot?’ Overall, Body Voyager is an engaging and insightful journey into the role of technology in medicine.
Café 1505
After a day immersed in medical history and exploration, visitors can unwind at Café 1505, named in honour of the year the Incorporation of Surgeons and Barbers was founded. It provides a welcoming and relaxing atmosphere, offering a range of delicious refreshments and meals. It's one of my go-to places to escape the hustle and bustle of Edinburgh’s Old Town (you don’t have to be a visitor to the Museums to go to the café). I love to sit in their courtyard/gardens area and enjoy a cup of coffee and wee dessert while I work.
Plan Your Visit
Surgeons’ Hall Museums are a landmark location in Edinburgh’s Old Town and provide the opportunity to examine the history of medicine (and so much more) in both classic and innovative ways. This post is just a wee introduction to the Museums as there is so much more to see and do in person. Therefore, if you come to Edinburgh, we highly recommend that you take the time to visit them. Be sure to go to their website so you can get the most up to date information to best plan your visit.
The fun doesn’t have to stop there, you can continue learning about the history of Edinburgh on one of our fun and engaging walking tours. Check out our website to learn more.
Until next time- Explore & Discover!
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