This week, we visit one of the most beautiful medieval churches in Scotland, Paisley Abbey. Despite centuries of tumultuous history, including wars and the Scottish Reformation, it still stands as a beacon for visitors from around the world. So, join our Golden-Angel Sawyer and his apprentice tour guide in-training, Walter, as they help us tell stories of monks, monarchs, and miracles!
Paisley Abbey was originally established as a Cluniac monastery in the 12th century but has changed a great deal over the centuries due to numerous reconstructions and renovations. It is now a beautiful blend of Romanesque and Gothic architecture. Furthermore, it still has its original crossed-shape layout and is oriented east to west. Visitors enter Paisley Abbey in the west end through the 12th century Romanesque door- the church’s oldest surviving feature. This brings you into the Nave- which is the oldest section of Paisley Abbey.
Unfortunately, most of the Nave was destroyed by English soldiers during their raid of 1307. Reconstruction of it went on until the mid-1400s, and French master mason, John Morow, was responsible for a lot of it. He also did stone masonry at Melrose Abbey. In the mid-1500s, after the Scottish Reformation, the Nave became the parish (Protestant) church.
According to Paisley Abbey, the Transepts and Choir “lay in ruins for centuries, but were eventually rebuilt, mostly in the early 20th century”. However, they kept the style and design true to the original design. Let’s head to the Choir to get a better look at how it looks today.
The beautifully carved Choir Stalls might look familiar for those of you who have been to the Thistle Chapel in St. Giles. That’s because both were designed by Robert Lorimer. The Choir Stalls at Paisley Abbey were done in the 1920s.
It only seems appropriate that we would take Walter to Paisley Abbey as there are a couple of famous ‘Walters’ with important historical connections to it. In fact, it was a ‘Walter’ who was the founder of the Abbey. Walter FitzAlan, originally from Brittany, France, was appointed by David I as his High Steward in 1136. His grandson (also Walter), took the surname Stewart; these are the forebears of the Royal Stewart family.
In 1315, Robert the Bruce’s daughter, Majorly Bruce, joined two royal dynasties when she married Walter Stewart, 6th High Steward (descendent of the original Walter who founded the Abbey). Her son became King Robert II who was the first of 14 Stewart kings and queens.
The Choir is in the east end of the church which was the most sacred section when it was a Catholic church. Thus, you can find important graves here, including Majorly Bruce and her grandson, Robert III.
Be sure to take your time as you explore Paisley Abbey (exterior and interior) as it is filled with amazing architecture, artefacts, and even some surprises. For example, situated in the east end of the Choir is the communion table. This one was designed by Charles d’Orville Pilkington Jackson who also designed the magnificent statue of Robert the Bruce at Bannockburn.
Not to be missed is St. Mirin Chapel (pictured below). St. Mirin was sent from Ireland to be a missionary to western Scotland and ended up in Paisley. It is said that he worked miracles and attracted people from afar who came to hear his stories. He is now the patron saint of Paisley.
There is also a plaque on display for Jonathan Witherspoon. He was originally a minister of the Laigh (Low) Paisley Kirk. However, he eventually went to the American colonies where, like our friend, Alexander Hamilton, was a member of the Continental Congress and signer of the Declaration of Independence. Furthermore, he was President for the College of New Jersey (which later became Princeton University) from 1768-1794.
Here are a few more photos from our visit to Paisley Abbey:
We are fortunate that Paisley Abbey still stands whole as most of its contemporaries were not so fortunate and now lie in ruins (e.g. Melrose Abbey). Paisley is just several miles west of Glasgow. Therefore, if you are in the area, we highly recommend that you visit town and especially Paisley Abbey. Head over to their website for more information.
Until next time- Explore & Discover!
